Day 1 – Arrival on Country
After an early start and a bumpy flight, we arrived in hot humid Cairns. We strapped ourselves in for a 5-hour bus ride up to Cooktown where we then transferred over onto a 4WD bus for the final leg into Melsonby. Upon arrival we were greeted by Uncles Bulla and Larry. They introduced us to the property and welcomed us with a traditional smoking ceremony. This made us feel relaxed and accepted onto the land. We setup tents and smashed down burgers ready for bed after a long day.
Day 2 – Melsonby
We woke early in the morning after a night of hearing the Melsonby guard dogs chasing away some of the wild dingoes and pigs that appeared that night, saving us from having a poor sleep. Bulla and Larry took us out on a bush walk and introduced us to some new plants and other fauna that had been used for thousands of years by the traditional owners of this land. Some of the highlights were the ‘bush potatoes’ that was technically a plum and were very starchy. Another was the ‘plant soap’ that, after some lathering and water, produced some soap like liquid that cleaned our hands. We then arrived at an art site and Larry took us through the main artworks showing us the history of the land in the different galleries. During our experience we felt quite small in the perspective of time as the paintings we were looking at were as old as 60,000 years. The feeling of the galleries was also a little different as it was outdoors and had paintings on all angles of the rocks. After returning from our walk, we were taken past the kitchen to a small area with 6 large rocks and Bulla took us through some rock painting, showing us an axe used for hunting and how to break the rocks and turn them into paint by crushing into a fine powder and mixing it with water. After everyone had a go, Bulla taught us the ‘spit technique’ that has been used for thousands of years to paint our hand signatures on the rocks. Out of our group around half of us tried it out. Later on, Aunty Julie took us around to an empty fence and as a collective group we started to paint this fence with images of nature and our own identity. Some of the key paintings to the group would have been of Texas the lizard and Mr Bermingham. These paintings will immortalise our experiences at Melsonby. After the fence painting we headed down to the creek nearby and shovelled holes in the ground for us to sit in, and later on Hamish Cooper caught a small turtle that we took some pictures of.
Day 3 – Melsonby
To start our third day at Melsonby, we woke up bright and early to the sounds of birds. After getting ready, group 4 prepared avocado and feta toast which was nice. After a good meal, we got ready to go fishing. Most of us have fished before but not with a hand reel. After a quick bus ride, we arrived at a secluded river where we were tried hand line fishing. During that time Larry caught a massive Barramundi. How did the students go? Liam caught a small spotted perch, Hamish caught a turtle (which we released) and Darcy caught a cod which we were able to keep, and we are excited to try. Lunch on this day was turkey wraps which was good. During our lunch time a nest of green ants were around. They carry lots of nutrients and they tasted quite sour. After lunch we also made some wraps for Auntie Julie, Larry and grandma. We continued to fish, but we had no luck catching more fish. Larry did spot a crocodile towards the end of our fishing trip which was unique. After packing up all the fishing equipment, we all hopped on the bus and started heading back to camp. Once we arrived, we chilled at the benches for a few minutes then got ready to hop in the creek. We finished the day off with a dip in the creek to cool off and relax. Dinner was nachos which was a treat out in the outback!
Day 4 – Final Day at Melsonby
To start our last full day in Melsonby, we once again woke up to the sounds of kookaburras singing. Breakfast was scrambled eggs and toast prepared by group 3 which was very delicious. We met Bulla and began our bush walk towards our second rock painting site of the trip. This site was incredible, and it had paintings that dated back many centuries. We were amazed at the more recent additions of sailing ships, a rifle and men with hats and pipes! Once we all settled down, Bulla told us a story about a previous white owner who vandalised the paintings and how bad karma immediately got the better of him when he was bitten by an Eastern Brown Snake, the local totem animal. After the walk we had some time to rest and recuperate at the campsite before beginning the preparation for the Kup Murri. We dug out a metre square in the ground and collected wood, bark and branches to start the fire that we would eventually use to cook on. We then returned to camp to prep the meal. We roughly chopped lamb, pork and chicken and added seasoning, as well as onions, potatoes, pumpkin and yams before wrapping everything in foil packages and carrying it all in a big basket and placing it in the coals of the fire. We then covered the hole with metal sheets and dirt to retain all the heat. After this we were boiling hot, so we went for another swim in our favourite creek. After our swim, Ginger taught us how to make bracelets using traditional weaving techniques. This involved using fire to make the pandanus more flexible and knives to trim the spikes off. we made some colourful creations then we learnt how to prepare damper with Auntie Julie. We then served up an amazing dinner and after that, to top it all off, we enjoyed choc chip damper and hot chocolate! The food we ate was incredible and we are all grateful for the opportunity to experience our hosts’ culture and hospitality. To finish the day off, we then all sat down around the fire and shared our amazing experiences at Melsonby and reflected upon our favourite memories and any last questions that we had to ask our wonderful hosts before moving on to the second part of our adventure tomorrow.
Day 5 – Travel back to Cairns
Today was a bright and early start, waking up at first light to pack and have a sunrise breakfast, as we had a long way to go back to Cairns from Melsonby. Too soon after breakfast we were saying goodbye to Uncles Bulla, Larry and Leon, and Aunties Julie, Ginger, and Val, and young Tyler. We were all procrastinating as nobody wanted to leave, and we were all cheered by Uncle Bulla’s invitation that we might come back with friends and family whenever we like. We were incredibly grateful to be gifted a didgeridoo from Larry who had crafted this for us the day before. We each had a shot at trying to play it (it went poorly), although Milan took up a strong attachment to it, and is well on his way to learning it. After leaving from Melsonby, it felt like a much shorter bus ride to Cooktown than last time, where we said goodbye to Matt and the 4×4 bus, and got back onto the more comfortable coach with the same bus driver (Kevin) from the way up. Flying through the toilet stops in Lakeland and Mt Molloy, we were quickly at Mossman Gorge, ready to eat our lunch. Mossman Gorge was stunning. The waters meandered their way through the gigantic gully, and the dense rainforest gave the impression that we truly were standing on the ancient continent of Gondwana. After a quick run through the gift shop, we were back on the road, this time headed down the coast. The change in scenery was stark, from sparse red earth bushland to lush green mountainous rainforest. Finally, we arrived back in Cairns settling down at our beautiful campsite on the edge of the Daintree. With our newly made experience we quickly set up and eating dinner, excited for the next chapter of our trip.
Day 6 – Fitzroy Island Adventure
We woke up early in the morning to catch a ferry to Fitzroy Island, which is not too far from the Cairns Marina Jetty. It has a very unique environment, with a beach of dead coral, bright blue water and a rainforest in the centre. We were welcomed by marine biologists Ethan (the goat) and Kash, and First Nations descendent and expert Rachel. We first heard about indigenous culture and history on the island, as the island was traditionally inhabited by almost exclusively First Nations women, who used specialised gathering and crafting techniques. Then we learnt more about totems, animal symbols and protectors of different indigenous tribes, including how the group at Melsonby had the Eastern Brown Snake as its totem. We were encouraged to pick a totem for our group and we chose the turtle. This was fitting as we then met Raine, a 100kg 80 year old green sea turtle who has been recovering from a neurological disease in captivity since 2021. The marine biologists taught us about green sea turtles and the issues they face, and described the problems faced by Raine. They say Raine is set to be released shortly and she’ll be more than capable of adapting to sea life once more. After lunch, we got on a glass-bottom boat where we were lucky enough to be able to look through clear water and learn about how the reef operates. The marine biologist Ethan was super helpful in clearing common misconceptions, especially around how the media portrays coral and what the real threats are to this ecosystem. We then had a bush walk in the local rainforest area and searched for native flora and fauna. After seeing many different plants, a few insects, lizards, and birds, we were taught about the significance of these animals, and how the old people would have used them to preserve the ecosystem and their own culture. Finally, we got to go snorkelling! The marine biologists both guided us on a tour of the reef and the wildlife, and allowed us to free snorkel on our own, getting to see the different fish and coral species, along with their unique survival methods and behaviours, up close and personal. We got back to the camp and ended the long day winding down with volleyball, games, and steak sandwiches
Day 7 – The Great Barrier Reef
A sense of déjà vu pervaded this morning as we woke up with the same routine as the day before, even down to being at the Marina at the same time, ready to head out to the Great Barrier Reef. A little bit of early morning rain brought down some spirits, but its quick passage had everyone pretty keen for the reef. The boat ride was thrice as long today, and many rounds of card games and monopoly deal, which was avidly joined by the crew, made time fly by (at about 20 knots). The choppy seas made for queasy stomachs but surprisingly, most breakfasts stayed down. We were kitted up once again as we boarded so, once we reached our first dive spot, we were quickly in the water. Now here was a paradise! The sparkling seas gave way to a colourful carnival below, teaming with coral in the dulcet tones of the whole rainbow, and patterned fish of all sizes. Boys were taken on cultural tours around the site, where we learnt about how the nearby Aboriginal nation would make epic multi-day voyages to the outer reef to collect what they needed until next year. We were also taken on biology tours and shown the reef from its own perspective. After feasting on a buffet lunch, we sailed further along the reef to our next dive spot. If the last one was paradise, then this one was Nirvana. The biggest fish we had seen yet swam and played with the smallest and 4 turtles lazily gobbled whatever came their way. Some boys, swimming on the surface, were even able to swim alongside a turtle. However, snorkelling was made difficult by the storing swell that filled every second breath with water. This did reinforce how special the place was, as swell like that in Victoria would churn up so much sand that you wouldn’t be able to see your knee. Eventually, content and tired, and after watching a fish feeding demonstration, we turned around and went home, along the way having various items of the local nation shown to us, including a didgeridoo being played by one of the best players in his nation. That night, exhausted, dinner was most welcome: take away pizza, leaving heaps of time for reflection and respite before our incredible immersion comes to an end.
